It must first be noted you need purchased Pepakura Designer for this Tutorial Faq section, otherwise you will not be able to save your work.
First pick out the chest of the armor you want to build.
You start with the Chest because this is the part that needs to fit good.
I will use Gunner Female Uragaan Chest Armor f_body048 since it looks pretty awesome.
A.Cutting away what I dont want to build,
B.Opening in Pepakura,
D.What if im to fat or skinny?,
For this I use Meshlab. Please see links section for Free Download of it.
Carfully rotate and highlight the model select out the parts you dont want and hit your delete key.
Take note that there is no real undo button so be very careful not to select parts you need.
This step normally takes alot of time. Once you are thru you got a clean ready to Pepakura model!
Export Mesh as .OBJ and add an A to the name this way you can tell the old from the new model
Open pepakura and drop in your new model.
Go ahead and put the texture on it so you can better see your new model.
Hit the unfold button and you have to measure you and try a number you might think will be the right height.
If your selected model is like this model the shoulders go high in the air make sure you account for them.
Seperate out the Spine and the skinny part of the waist, align them to the top few pages.
Make them in order so they are easy to assemble, this takes guess work out.
Turn textures off and print out the spine and waist normally about 10 or so pages.
Cut out and assemble then try on the assembled pieces.
Take note of how its either to big, to small, to short, to tall, or just right.
Armor should fit a bit lose not like a skin suit ,after all you have to be able to move,
but you should not be tiny in it either.
if these parts are all to big and also tall simply rescale the model down a few mm.
if these parts are all to small and also short simply rescale the model up a few mm.
to rescale see drop down menu 2D Menu , Recalculate parts layout... and add or take away from the hieght.
After rescale print and try again.
If it now fits skip step D. and go right to E.
First dont freak out. If you are not built like the in game model guys and girls thats ok,
We got you covered too!
But the process is a little more difficult, because now you have to bring your model back to meshlab.
Reopen the renamed model from the end of step A. in Meshlab.
Select Filters , Normals Curvature and Orintation , Transform scale.
Unselect Uniform scaling if its checked, and select preview. Normally one would only slightly
Increase or Decrease Y axis to make the armor skinny or fatter as needed and repeat steps A. thru C.
Once the spine and waist fit you its time to make this armor real!
Look back at the 2D Menu , Recalculate parts layout... and take note of the scale number.
This scale number will likley be used for all parts, Arms, waist, legs and helmet too!
Try to make the armor in sections that are easy to understand and assemble. not a jumbled mess!
Good Luck and Happy Hunting!
First thing unzip all files in the zip or rar into a new folder someplace easy, like your desktop.
Open the file of choice in Pepakura click the "Settings" button
The top option is "Texture Settings" browse the folder you unzipped the files into.
Chose the file with the same .png ,it may have a BM or MM added tot he name thats ok.
For example if you opened f_arm051.obj then you would browse for f_arm051.png ,f_arm051_BM.png or f_arm051_MM.png.
Taking note the the file name has all the clues, f = female , m = male , 51 = agnaktor ,other numbers = different monsters armors , and of coarse Arm = the arm Bits , wst = waist parts and so forth.
On the PNG files the MM = Mesh Materials and is typicly not the one you want , BM = Base Materials ,this is usually the one that you want , but on just a few models you might need the other or both for best results which is why I included them both.
If you find the texture does not line up and the model looks WONKY,
Simply bring the picture file AKA f_arm051_BM.png to photoshop and turn it 90, 180 or 270 degrees and try it again.
If none of that works, mirror the image then try rotating it again.
If it still don't work Email me and I'll fix it for you Be sure to tell me which file you are having problems with.
I did a spot check randomly before putting them on the site. Everything seemed to work.
The .zip and .rar files can be opened and extracted with 7zip its free i have it link on this page
The .OBJ files in those zips along with the .PNG files need to be unzipped into a normal windows folder . I usually put this folder on my desktop to keep it simple.
Then to get them started, open the .OBJ file with pepakura you really need the purchased version to save the armor.
Other wise be sure not to close the the work you are doing cause you wont be able to save it!
To open them start pepakura
Hit (file) the drop opens select the (NEW) a new window opens, find your folder where the parts where unzipped select one of the .obj parts it should now open!
Alternatively you can open pepakura and drag and drop the .obj file into the 3D window area
once you got it you will notice its not unfolded like most .PDO files you are used to ,nor will it have color
its free to use , but purchased version allows you to change and save your own files needed for DIY armor making! I dont profit from this
How about a free one?
You can of coarse resize by changing the scale factor in pepakura , but if you need to make the armor thinnner or fatter you might need
Meshlab Link to Site
From the store you need
Card stock paper also known as 110 weight ,
Hot glue I prefer the Mini guns and High Temp Sticks,
Scissors the newer and sharper the better
Printer with a bit of ink the bigger models use more but i print mine withou textures for ink saving
and patients and time.
PaperCrafting like this is not to difficult and most anyone that can wield scissors and glue gun can do it
You can Google how to Pepakura there is alot of help out there for this especially the 405th forums even if you aint interested in what they are building.Link
One more product I like to use is the Craft Robo 3 also known as the Silhouette SD Digital Craft Cutter
I have build endless papercrafts and especially in large scale this device has been a life saver.
It Basicly cuts all the patterns out and since it makes every cut so close to perfect the models go together easier and better
If you only plan to do one thing in papercraft I would not buy it ,but if you are going to make many things this a totally worth while machine to have!
I would absolutely like to get back any models that are unfolded and Ill give you credit for the unfold!
Turning DIY to RTB is very good! Making the models Ready To Build really helps amateurs and people with little computer skills
since unfolding 800 files is a undaunting task for 1 person that is why i did a DIY sections
When you end up with several pieces that need to go together that dont just fit together, you have to get inventive some parts require you cut out a hole to place the other part into.
while other parts require more of a channel
Some parts you just need to glue part 1 right onto part 2 for others you might have to make some reinforcements like ,PVC pipe ,cardboard or foam-core, all of which I normally use!
Also if you have any flat large surfaces you should probably cut and glue in foamcore before its sealed shut
If the weapon has small handles you could add thin wood like 3/8 to 1/2 inch plywood, behind the pieces that can later be screwed together and if you use wood glue, which is very strong
Sharp points are usually best folded starting from the point, working down otherwise it can get close to imposable to build, Pulsating Cores horns and eye brow are great example of this.
Leave large panels open long as possible ,they are easy to close later, but hard if you need your hand in there
Look at angles on disconnected parts before you just glue them together many parts float thru each other in the game but this makes it hard to make in real life , thou many files work great strait up, the games designers didnt take into account that we might wear there models one day! or even guess that we would make them real at all Im sure! Ratholos Head Armor is among the worst for the overlapping parts that sort of just float.
How to make the armor/weapons HARD? paper might not get it for most parts there is a number of things to do to make the Armor/Weapons hard.
1.Fiberglass this is a sure fire way to make armor into rigid , this can be difficult if you dont have someone show you , I normally fiberglass the interior and resin paint the outside. I normally use Epoxy in place of fiberglass resin. Its stronger but harder to work with.
2.Papermache or poggie is another way this is alot like fiberglassing but not so toxic and easier to clean up and is alot cheaper i would use yellow wood glue like tite bond or weatherproof wood glue for best results you can use it strait without deluting it, I would avoid the use of baking goods such as flour because you dont want ants, roaches,moths eating your work! Of coarse with any of this if you are unsure how to ,first look on the internet for directions and second test on something not so important like meat! Videos coming soon.
1. Most parts can be disjoined
but I assume you have tried that and that you still have parts that are to long for fitting
2. In this case, place parts across 2 or more sheets ,I then normally label them part A and part B , i draw manually a "fold" line for reconnection but normally dont glue it up till i have the surrounding pieces in place thus assuring the length is right
3. for redistribution I would add a note to it because not everyone understands
I started making the Tutorials and Broke my Knee April 21 so the Video based Tuts could be a while longer ,sorry for the delay
Monster Hunters Official site is Capcom but I am not affiliated with them I just really like there Games and want to see people cosplay from it! Thanks!